From Frozen Tuna to Homemade Pasta in Sardinia

Where To Lisbon
Jan 19
4 min read

Between glowing reviews and bland dishes, I discovered the real Sardinia on the terrace of some strangers!

Among so many reviews painting Sardinia as paradise, I found a less idyllic reality… especially at the table.

One of the most striking episodes happened in a restaurant with an impressive Google rating: a solid 4.5 stars. When we arrived and looked around, we already had our doubts about the dishes, but we decided to go ahead. The starters arrived, mozzarella that tasted like rotten fish. Yikes, the show had begun. We told the waiter, who assured us that this was how mozzarella should taste. Maybe here, yes, but I had never before confused those two flavors.

We ordered the main courses, which looked promising in the photos (the food blogger syndrome: I never eat anywhere without first checking its quality on Instagram). On the table came inedible frozen tuna and a nauseating pasta. My boyfriend and I always share dishes so that no one suffers alone, but this time, we were both condemned. And mind you, we’re not picky eaters, but everything was left on the plate. I asked for the bill and, embarrassed by what I had just eaten, went to the counter to pay. The waiter, seeing the untouched plates, asked if everything had gone well. I told him no, in fact, everything was bad. He apologized and said I didn’t have to pay… as long as I didn’t leave a review on Google.

A fair deal for silence, I suppose. I couldn’t help thinking this must be a common practice to bury this tourist trap. On the way out, I looked around and saw disappointed but resigned faces, as if the problem were their taste buds and not the food.

What was supposed to be a gastronomic journey turned into a disaster, followed by a string of bland, overpriced meals. But since not everything can be touristy, we ended up stumbling upon a secret that saved the trip, a restaurant that is, in fact, a home.

It all began with a desperate Google search. The place looked local, but we double-checked with some people from the area. After a confident “yes,” we made a reservation via WhatsApp. The English was limited and not particularly friendly, but the promise of quality food made up for any language barrier. The last message simply said: “Cash only. €35. Come to this address at 8.” It could have sounded like a kidnapping, but we went for it anyway.

Upon arrival, we were greeted by Gianni. With a wide smile and rapid Italian (of which we understood almost nothing), he welcomed us into his home. He apologized for still finishing preparations and, as if it were the most natural thing in the world, invited us to walk around his farm. We saw the animals, the vegetable garden, and above all, the pride visible in every detail. Later, Silvana appeared, radiant as well. She explained that three times a week, they open their doors to eight strangers. Around that table, the awkwardness fades quickly; stories, laughter, and, of course, dishes that taste of real Sardinia are shared. Some spoke English, others German or Italian, and we spoke Portuguese, with Google Translate and gestures, we managed to communicate.

Starters arrived with wine, followed by roast suckling pig cooked on a spit. Halfway through the meal, I went to the bathroom and found Silvana in the kitchen, humming as she prepared culurgiones, a traditional pasta filled with potato and cheese. I smiled, she was completely in her element and didn’t even notice me there. Every dish was full of soul and dedication. In total, there were five starters, two main courses, two desserts, and fruit, always with wine, and god forbid anyone’s glass was empty. There are no choices or menus here, it’s take it or leave it. Luckily, everything was delicious. The culurgiones stood out so much they became one of my favorite pastas ever. Handmade with such care, they had a unique flavor. I’m not sure if they make my top three for their quality alone or for the memories they now evoke, but they’re unforgettable, that’s for sure.

Gianni sat with us most of the evening, sharing stories and traditions, and speaking proudly of being sardo (a Sardinian local). It was a true farm-to-table meal, but with the warmth of a dinner among friends, the exact opposite of the impersonal tourist restaurants.

At the end, reality returned in the form of a receipt, €35 in cash, paid at the end of the meal. Extremely fair, if you ask me. In exchange, we received an A4 paper receipt with our names on it, as if to prove that not even a home-restaurant escapes taxes, though it almost felt like a participation certificate.

By far, the best experience of the trip.

In the end, it’s always off the beaten path that the real encounters happen, far from the reviews and close to the locals. It’s worth taking the risk, asking the people who live there, and embracing the unexpected. As Anthony Bourdain once said, every act of hospitality should be received with an open heart, and that’s exactly what we did!

Learn more about Portuguese food traditions 🇵🇹

This is not your regular food tour.

It’s a tasting experience of Lisbon, told through the dishes, artisans, and traditions that shape the city. If you travel to understand how locals live, what they cherish, and the flavors that define them, this experience was created for you.

🕛 Starts at 12 PM

⏱️ +/- 4 hours | 10 stops

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