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Living in South Africa as a foodie (2 months in Cape Town)
- Where To Lisbon
- Apr 18
- 4 min read
This is my second time spending close to two months in Cape Town, and yes, the timing helps.
While Europe is deep into winter, it’s full summer here. But the weather is only part of it. Cape Town has quietly become one of those cities where you’re never short of places to eat, things to try, or stories behind the food.
And the food is exactly that, a mix of stories.
South African cuisine isn’t easy to pin down. Ask a few people what’s truly “local” and you’ll get different answers every time. Beyond something like Biltong, there isn’t a single dish that defines the country.
But that’s also what makes it interesting.
To understand the food here, you really have to look at history, layers of influence from indigenous cultures, colonial powers, enslaved communities, and migration across continents. It’s complex, and sometimes uncomfortable, but it all shows up on the plate.
Cooking in Bo-Kaap: where food and history meet
One of the most meaningful things I did was a cooking class in Bo-Kaap, a neighborhood known for its brightly colored houses and deep cultural roots.
This is where you start to understand Cape Malay cuisine. The food here reflects the history of enslaved people brought to the Cape by the Dutch from places like Indonesia, Malaysia, and parts of East Africa. Along with religion (many were Muslim), they brought spices, techniques, and recipes that shaped what we now recognize as Cape Malay cooking.
Dishes like Bobotie, Sosaties, and Koeksisters all have roots here, even if they’ve evolved over time.
The class itself takes place in a family home that’s been turned into a cooking space. It was started by Fayruza, who spent most of her life cooking for others at a university decided not to stop after retiring. What began as one kitchen grew into several, and you can feel that sense of purpose the moment you walk in.
Even though she no longer runs every session herself, the experience still feels personal. It’s less about technique and more about sharing.
Over a few hours, we made samosas (chamussas), chickpea fritters, a Cape Malay chicken curry, and roti. Dessert, koeksisters, was already prepared.
What stood out wasn’t just the food, but the tone. The history behind it is heavy, but the way it’s shared isn’t. It’s warm, open, even joyful. It reminded me how food can carry difficult stories without making the experience feel heavy.
Wine country weekends (and why you don’t overplan them)
If you’re in Cape Town, a trip to the Cape Winelands is almost unavoidable, and honestly, you shouldn’t try to overthink it.
Regions like Stellenbosch and Franschhoek are about an hour away, and the formula is easy: good wine, beautiful mountains, amazing lunches.
That’s the plan.
You move from one estate to another, maybe book a tasting, maybe stay longer than expected. Some places lean more modern, others more traditional, but the setting does most of the work.
A few that stood out:
Stark-Condé (great setting, slightly tucked away)
Smaller estates where things feel less polished but more personal like Marianne Wine Estate
Check here my full guide to the winelands!
Eating the “rainbow”: a different kind of comfort food
To get a sense of everyday South African food, not the curated version, places like Seven Colours Eatery are worth seeking out.
Run by chef Nolu Dube-Cele, it focuses on what’s often called “seven colours” food. The idea comes from Xhosa people culture a plate filled with a variety of colorful, nourishing dishes.
Think beetroot, rice, stews, vegetables, meat, all on one plate. It’s generous, comforting, and deeply rooted in home cooking rather than restaurant trends.
It also reflects something bigger: South Africa as the “rainbow nation,” where different cultures overlap and influence each other in ways that aren’t always neat, but are very real.
Braai: more than just a barbecue
At some point, you’ll hear about a Braai. It’s easy to translate it as “barbecue,” but that misses the point a bit.
A braai starts with fire, real wood fire, not gas. Then comes the meat (and South Africa does meat very well). But more importantly, it’s about the time spent around it.
People gather, talk, joke, sit quietly, come and go. The food matters, but it’s not the focus. The fire is.
It’s slower than what many people think of as a barbecue. Less structured, more about being there than getting things done.
Familiar flavors: Portuguese influence
Something that caught me off guard the first time was how familiar certain flavors felt.
Portugal has historical ties to southern Africa, and while it didn’t colonize South Africa itself, nearby Mozambique did, and that influence carries over.
You notice it in peri-peri sauces, grilled chicken, seafood, and the general love for bold, simple flavors. It’s not identical, but if you’re coming from Portugal, there’s a sense of recognition.
Layers of history on the plate
South African food doesn’t come from one place, it’s shaped by many.
Dutch and British colonial periods left their mark on agriculture, trade, and eating habits. Enslaved communities brought spices and techniques. Indigenous cultures contributed ingredients and traditions that predate all of it.
What you end up with isn’t a single cuisine, but a mix that doesn’t always try to resolve itself.
So, what is South African food?
After two months, I’m still not sure there’s a clear answer.
It’s a curry in Bo-Kaap, a plate of “seven colours,” a long afternoon in the Winelands, a braai that stretches into the night. It’s influences layered on top of each other, sometimes clearly, sometimes not.
And maybe that’s the point.
It’s not something you define quickly, but it’s definitely something you experience. Can’t wait to be back next year!
Learn more about Portuguese food traditions 🇵🇹
This is not your regular food tour.
It’s a tasting experience of Lisbon, told through the dishes, artisans, and traditions that shape the city. If you travel to understand how locals live, what they cherish, and the flavors that define them, this experience was created for you.
🕛 Starts at 12 PM
⏱️ +/- 4 hours | 10 stops
📅 Available most days
🚶♀️ Not suited for limited mobility (but we can create a private tour suited for your needs)
👥 Private tours on request: where.to.lx@gmail.com
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